Paul Bunyan State Trail
The basics
For up-to-date trail information, pick up a map brochure at parking lots in most towns along the trail. Website:dnr.state.mn.us/state_trails/paul_bunyan. For an interactive map of all state trails, go to strib.mn/1LSRuZS.
Where to eat/drink
When you’re biking 200 miles, all you need is a steady supply of fluids, calories and carbs. Fortunately, you’re rarely more than 5 or 10 miles from a bar and grill, dive bar or gas station.
Udom’s Thai: Authentic Thai in Hackensack? It’s true. Their secret? Owners/spouses Udom and Paul Mitchell (a Thai native and a Minnesotan, respectively) winter in Thailand and then return for the high season. Lay off the spice, though — you’re biking (1-218-675-5513;sites.google.com/site/udomsthai).
Brigid’s Pub: Irish-pub fare from scratch in downtown Bemidji makes for a perfect lunch spot for ravenous riders (1-218-444-0567; brigidsirishpub.com).
Big Axe Brewing Co.: The taproom is a nice addition to Nisswa’s busy tourist strip. Several styles of beer, with a barbecue dinner menu on weekends (1-218-961-2337; bigaxebrewing.com).
Where to stay
Camping: Campsites (from $21-$23) and camper cabins (from $55) are available at Crow Wing and Lake Bemidji state parks (mndnr.gov/reservations). Also, there are two “primitive,” first-come-first-served sites off Mile 42 near Pine River. You brought bug spray, right?
Chase on the Lake: This classic Walker hotel on Leech Lake looks like it might have been a getaway for 1920s timber barons. A dining room and patio overlook Leech Lake. But three particular traits are cherished by bike tourers: soft beds, a big complimentary breakfast and the hot tub (from $119 online; 1-888-242-7306; chaseonthelake.com).
In mid-June, 2022, we rode 2 sections of the Paul Bunyan trail and had 2 completely different experiences. From Brainard south to Crow Wing State Park – beautiful, a smooth trail and a route across the river and through the wooded areas of the park. However, we also rode from Nisswa to Walker and back. The first 10 miles out of Nisswa were nice (pretty country) but from there to Backus (that’s about 20 miles, it was horrible! The trail has not been maintained. Serious cracks (1 to 2 inches across and not filled), 2 places where there were sinkholes in the trail (dangerous!) and hundreds of areas where grass, weeds, and even trees were growing in the trail. Would never ride that again. The trail from Backus to Walker was again a pleasant ride and beautiful country. If we had to do it again, I’d arrange for transport to miss the middle section of the 55 mile run we made (and having to go back over it the next day was like punishment).
We have had some pretty crazy storms – everyone is working very hard too keep them clear!!!